The tour books warn you that they don’t do dessert in Russia, and it’s true. Cheesecake? Warm pie? These concepts are as foreign as the country itself.

But Russians love ice cream. On chilly days, a few brave souls will line up at the nearest corner stand and purchase not one, but two cones. On downright frigid days, the lines snake around the block. Truly devoted souls remove their gloves and even their hats while double-fisting their desserts.

And while ice cream can be found indoors, Russians won’t opt for it: why eat something cold when you’re warm?